Installing a new basin tap is one of the most rewarding small projects in a bathroom renovation. The process is straightforward for most standard setups, and a clean installation makes a significant visible difference. This guide walks through what to expect.
Important: We recommend professional installation for all Cortenvale products. This guide is intended as an overview to help you understand the process and prepare for a plumber's visit, or for experienced DIYers with confidence in plumbing work.
Before You Start: What You Need to Know
Check Your Basin
Before purchasing a tap, confirm:
- Number of tap holes — Most basins have 1 hole (for a single-lever mixer), but some have 2 or 3 holes (for separate hot and cold, or for a 3-piece set). Your new tap must match.
- Tap hole diameter — Standard UK tap holes are 35mm. Check your basin specification to confirm.
- Installation type — Is the tap deck-mounted (onto the basin/countertop) or wall-mounted? Wall-mounted taps require in-wall plumbing.
Check Your Water Pressure
Most basin taps require a minimum of 1.5 bar water pressure to operate correctly. Check your home's water pressure before purchasing. Most UK properties with a combi boiler run at 2–3 bar.
Tools You May Need
- Adjustable spanner or basin wrench
- PTFE tape (for sealing threaded connections)
- Silicone sealant (for sealing the tap base to the basin)
- Towels and a bucket (to catch residual water)
- Torch or headlamp (under-sink access can be dark)
Deck-Mounted Basin Tap: Installation Overview
Step 1 — Turn Off the Water Supply
Locate the isolation valves under the basin (inline with the hot and cold pipes) and turn them clockwise to isolate the water. If there are no isolation valves, turn off the main stopcock.
Open the existing tap to release any residual pressure and drain remaining water from the pipes.
Step 2 — Remove the Old Tap
Disconnect the supply hoses from under the basin using an adjustable spanner. Then loosen and remove the back nut that holds the tap to the basin. Lift the tap out from above.
Step 3 — Clean the Tap Hole
Remove any old sealant or limescale from around the tap hole using a cloth and mild cleaner. The surface should be clean and dry before fitting the new tap.
Step 4 — Fit the New Tap
Thread the supply hoses down through the tap hole. Most taps include a rubber gasket or backplate — position this between the tap body and the basin surface. From below, thread on the back nut and tighten by hand, then a quarter turn with a spanner. Do not overtighten.
Step 5 — Connect the Supply Hoses
Connect the flexible supply hoses to the isolation valves or pipe connections below. Wrap threaded connections with a few turns of PTFE tape before connecting. Hand-tighten, then snug with a spanner.
Step 6 — Turn On and Test
Slowly open the isolation valves and check for leaks at all connections. Run the tap to flush any air from the system. Check again for leaks after 10 minutes.
Wall-Mounted Basin Tap: Key Differences
Wall-mounted taps require the water supply to be plumbed into the wall at the correct height before the tap is fitted. This typically requires a plumber during the renovation stage before tiling.
The correct height for a wall-mounted tap spout depends on the basin depth and position — typically 180–250mm above the basin rim. This should be confirmed with your plumber before the wall is tiled.
When to Call a Plumber
Call a professional if:
- You have no isolation valves and need to work from the main stopcock
- The tap is wall-mounted and requires in-wall plumbing work
- You're replacing pipework at the same time
- You're unsure at any point — a small leak can cause significant damage over time
For any questions about product compatibility or installation, contact us at info@cortenvale.com or via WhatsApp at +44 7758152639.